Vitamin C - oil soluble (Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate)
02400
Extracts/Actives
Description
Vitamin C - oil soluble (Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate)
|
INCI |
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate |
|
Certification |
Conventional |
|
Appearance |
Clear to pale yellow liquid |
|
Origin |
China |
|
Solubility |
Oil |
|
Usage rate |
Generally used at 0.5 - 3% (Though some brands use up to 20%) |
|
pH range |
3 - 6% (in emulsion based formulas) |
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Vegan |
Yes |
|
Palm oil |
No |
|
Animal tested |
No |
Vitamin C is highly coveted in skincare for its ability to brighten the complexion, even out skin tone, support collagen production, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve pigmentation and dark spots and help to protect the skin from environmental stressors and premature ageing.
Ascorbic acid is often considered the "purest" form of vitamin C as it is the most direct, unmodified form of vitamin C. However, while potent, ascorbic acid is notoriously difficult to formulate with due to its instability—degrading quickly when exposed to light, air, or water—requiring higher concentrations that can irritate the skin. It also oxidises easily, causing discolouration and a shorter shelf life.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, on the other hand, is a stable, oil-soluble derivative of vitamin C, i.e. a formulator's dream! It can deliver superior stability and penetration compared to ascorbic acid. Its oil-soluble nature integrates effortlessly into oil-based products, while offering long-lasting efficacy without discolouration. Perfect for both skincare and haircare, it brings versatility and ease to formulation, ensuring high-performance results without the need for high concentrations. Its non-irritating properties make it gentle on the skin, avoiding the exfoliating effects common with other vitamin C forms.
In skincare, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate helps create a radiant, even complexion while promoting a firmer, more youthful appearance. It supports the skin’s natural processes, helping to reduce the appearance of pigmentation and age spots, while also enhancing collagen production. Its UV-protective qualities and ability to combat environmental stressors make it a standout for all skin types, leaving skin soft and revitalised.
In haircare, this ingredient also shines. When used at just 0.5% in an oil serum, it helps repair the cuticle, leaving hair feeling healthier, shinier, and more protected from damage. Its unique interaction with amino acids in damaged hair makes it more hydrophobic, helping restore its vitality.
Key benefits include:
- Superior stability and penetration compared to ascorbic acid
- Helps reduce the appearance of pigmentation and age spots
- Enhances collagen production for firmer, more youthful-looking skin
- Protects against UV-induced damage and environmental stressors
- Versatile for both skincare and haircare applications
- Non-irritating and does not exfoliate like traditional vitamin C forms
Caution: Do not directly apply onto your skin.
This product should be added to a formulation at the recommended usage rate.
As with any new product, patch test before use.
Ready-made products containing tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
 Vitamin C skin revival serum |
Recipes using tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
 Vitamin C & melon serum |