How to Make a Base Cream: A Simple Guide

Do It Yourself Base Cream. Making your own cream may sound like an art reserved for experienced formulators, but it’s simpler than you might think! Once you master the basics, you can start adding your own flourishes with ingredients like essential oils, botanical extracts, and powerful actives that suit your skin's unique needs. Let's start by covering the basic steps and ingredients needed for a simple cream formula and explore how you can customise it to make it truly your own. That’s when it starts to get fun!

What’s in a DIY Base Cream? Understanding the Functional Ingredients

When it comes down to it, making a cream requires just a few key components: water, oil, an emulsifier, and a preservative. Each of these plays an essential role in creating a stable and safe cream.

Let’s keep it simple. Let’s talk about the functional ingredients in a cream and what their purpose is.

Water and Oil: The Foundation of Your DIY Base Cream

To make a cream, you need both water and oil—two substances that don’t naturally mix. Water provides the hydration, while oil helps moisturise because it locks in the hydration. However, because water and oil naturally repel each other, we need the help of an emulsifier to bring them together in a smooth, stable blend.

The Role of the Emulsifier

An emulsifier binds water and oil together to create a unified product. Without it, the oil and water would quickly separate. Emulsifiers are the vital ingredient for achieving that creamy texture we want in our skincare products.

Why Do You Need a Preservative?

Now, because our formula contains water, it needs a preservative. There’s no way around this. If your product contains water it needs preserving. Some people don’t wish to use a preservative in their products, and that’s absolutely fine, it just means that you can’t make products that contain water, it’s just not safe. Remember, percentage is key. It’s essential to use a preservative to prevent bacteria, yeast, and mold from developing. While some people prefer to avoid preservatives, a water-based cream without one isn’t safe for long-term use.

Proper preservation keeps your cream stable and safe for use over time.

You can also choose to use preservatives that are approved for natural and organic formulations

• Geogard 221: An effective preservative approved for use in natural formulations.
• Geogard ECT: A broad-spectrum preservative with ECOCERT approval.

Step-by-Step: Making Your First DIY Cream

With water, oil, an emulsifier, and a preservative, you have everything needed to make a basic cream formulation. However, there are many ways to personalise it! Now that you understand the core ingredients, let’s put them together into a basic cream recipe

Now we have: water, oil, emulsifier and preservative.

These alone will allow you to create Go Natives Base Cream 101 Formula

Phase A (Water phase)

• Water phase: 81% of the total formula
• Distilled water (or substitute with a hydrosol for added benefits)

Phase B (Oil phase)

• Oil phase: 12% of the total formula
• Carrier oil (like almond, jojoba, or olive oil)
• Emulsifier: 6% of the total formula

Phase C (Cool down phase)

• Emulsifying wax or OliveM 1000
• Preservative: 1% of the total formula

Instructions: Base Cream 101 Formula

Customising Your DIY Cream: Substitutions and Additions

When you have mastered the basics, let’s look at ways you can add your own personal flair to your formulation.

1. Water Phase Variations

Instead of using distilled water, consider using:

• Hydrosols: Floral waters like rose or lavender hydrosol add gentle fragrance and skin-soothing properties.
• Aloe Vera Juice: Adds hydration and is soothing for sensitive skin.
• Green Tea Extract: Known for its antioxidant benefits.

2. Choosing the Right Oils

Different oils offer unique benefits. Here are some examples:

• Jojoba Oil: Lightweight and close to skin’s natural sebum, ideal for all skin types.
• Argan Oil: Rich in Vitamin E, making it great for aging or dry skin.
• Rosehip Seed Oil: Known for its rejuvenating properties, especially for mature skin.

3. Adding Essential Oils

Essential oils can enhance your cream’s aroma and add targeted skin benefits. Popular choices include:

• Lavender: Calming and great for all skin types.
• Tea Tree: Ideal for acne-prone skin due to its antibacterial properties.
• Frankincense: Known for its anti-aging properties.

Note: Always conduct a patch test when adding new essential oils, as some can cause sensitivity.

Boosting Your Base Cream Active Ingredients

For a more potent cream, you can incorporate active ingredients. Examples include:

• Hyaluronic Acid: A powerful hydrator that holds moisture in the skin.
• Vitamin C: Brightens the skin and evens out skin tone.
• Niacinamide: Reduces redness and improves the skin’s texture.

Tips for Making Your Cream Last Longer

• Use Clean Tools: Always sanitise your equipment to avoid contamination.
• Store in a Cool Place: Heat and sunlight can degrade some ingredients, so keep your cream in a cool, dark place.
• Label and Date: Since homemade products have a shorter shelf life, labelling them with the date of creation is helpful.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

1. Separation of Oil and Water
If your cream separates after a few days, it may be due to incorrect emulsifier use or improper blending. Always check your emulsifier’s recommended usage rate and blend thoroughly.

2. Grainy Texture
A grainy texture often occurs if certain oils solidify at different rates. Reheating and mixing the cream can sometimes help, or try using a different oil with a similar property.

3. Preservative Efficacy
If your cream develops an off smell or unusual texture, it may not be adequately preserved. Always check that you’re using the right preservative amount and that your ingredients are compatible with it.

Making Creams for Different Skin Types

For Dry Skin: Opt for richer oils like olive or avocado, and consider adding shea butter for an extra-moisturising effect.
For Oily Skin: Use lighter oils like grapeseed or jojoba, and keep your formulation light by using less oil overall.
For Sensitive Skin: Chamomile or calendula extracts can add a soothing touch, while avoiding strong essential oils or actives.

Have Fun and Experiment!

Making creams is a rewarding experience that lets you create customised products suited to your skin's unique needs. Start with the basics, and as you gain confidence, introduce new ingredients to create creams that reflect your preferences. With practice, you’ll develop your own go-to formulations that you can share with friends and family.

Happy formulating, and remember to enjoy the journey of learning, experimenting, and creating!